Breaking Trail on Curved Ridge

 Sunshine & snow :)

This week I'm working for Adventure Peaks helping Sebastian prepare for some big climbing plans. After yesterdays success on Ledge Route we upped the challenge slightly with an ascent of Curved Ridge on the Buachaille which gets a grade of III 4 under heavy snow conditions. The sun shone, winds were light and the ridge hadn't been climbed since the last dump of snow giving us a great day out, topping out to a stunning sunset. We descended via Coire Tullich which contained a wee bit of windslab but the worst was easily avoided.
 

Sebastian getting stuck into the crux corner on Curved Ridge

 

Both axes blow - about now!!!

 Guy Buckingham topping out on Agag's Groove (VI 7)

 Stunning views across Rannoch Mor

 The exit slopes to below Crowberry Tower

 Sebastian leading up towards Crowberry Tower

 The final few meters to the summit of the Buachaille

Buachaille sunset...

Powder day on the Ben

 

 Reaching the end of the first 'Zig' on Ledge Route

This week I'm working with Sebastian who is just beginning a two year climbing project with Adventure Peaks. With plenty of soft snow on the ground and light winds we headed up onto the Ben and Ledge Route, arguably the best grade II on the mountain. Despite the snow the approach was painless and we nipped up the lower reaches of No 5 Gully to gain the first 'zig'. There is very little old snow left on the initial ledges but the powder gave enough purchase and the upper reaches of the route were in great condition.

We descended via No 4 Gully which was knee deep in soft snow but everything seemed stable. This afternoons slightly stronger winds were just starting to develop a thin skin of soft slab on the surface.

 

Enjoying snowy conditions high on Ledge Route

Descending in to the powder of No 4 Gully

Coire Na Ciste from the CIC Hut

A snowy North Buttress

Snow all the way from the road on the approach to the Buchaille

The snow has arrived on the west coast of Scotland! As forecast it snowed for most of the night down to around 300m. Looking for a shorter day with some fun climbing we headed for North Buttress (IV 4) on the Buachaille, a reliable option in most conditions with the added advantage that you can ab off after the difficulties.  Please be aware that some of the obvious spike anchors are now very loose needing a good freeze to lock them in place.

There was plenty of snow from the road which increased significantly in depth as we gained height. The approach is over some good mountaineering terrain which was very time consuming in the unconsolidated conditions.The route itself was a good challenge with copious amounts of clearing but positive hooks and good gear. We abbed off after a couple of hours and were back at the van in daylight. Our footsteps from the morning had been filled in with almost constant snow showers during the day but there had been something of a thaw back down by the road (300m).This weekend I've been working for Adventure Peaks on a guided climbing course.

Magda enjoying the mountaineering ground below North Buttress

Burrowing out of the initial chimney on North Buttress

 Approaching the first belay in windless conditions

Sherpa Ambassador Heather Geluk at the first belay

Descending after a great climb

Tower Ridge in great condition...

Approaching the Little Tower on Tower Ridge

 

Magda & Heather enjoying perfect conditions

Plenty of exposure on the Eastern Traverse

 Blue skies on top of the Great Tower

 The descent into Tower Gap!

Mountain Day on the Ben

 

 

Winter Skills in Glencoe

 

 

A gentle & snow free start to the season!

 Tim Mosedale on Jacob's Ladder

A major thaw on Scotland's mountains has coincided with the start of my winter season. Friday was spent undertaking some training at Glenmore Lodge. Plenty of discussion on the latest thinking on avalanches, snow anchors and the Lodge procedures. Later that evening the Cairngorm summit weather station reported its warmest January temperature for 20 years - 13.8oC!
Saturday I was out with a winter skills group from Cairngorm Adventure Guides. It was the fourth day of their course so it was all about putting their new skills into practice and starting to make their own decisions on the hill. We headed over to the Twin Burns area in Lochain which provided reasonable snow and a couple of ice bulges. The snow pack was pretty sodden and the crags were wet and black. We squelched over the plateau to Coire Domhain and the beginnings of the usual snowhole city for a session on emergency shelters. The team then navigated successfully to the top of the Goat Track in the cloud and a steep but well stepped descent into Sneachda.
Today I went for a quick blast in Sneachda with Tim Mosedale. He's running a training course for his Everest and Ama Dablam teams this coming week. A lot better visability today with good views over a bare plateau and sunshine to the south. A clear sky overnight had led to a good frost and the snowpack was surprisingly well frozen so we quickly nipped up Jacobs Ladder (continuous snow), down Aladdins Couloir (bare rock at the ice bulge) and back up Central Gully (3 mixed steps). Elsewhere in the coire teams were engaged in plenty of drytooling and mixed action. There were queues on Jacob's Edge for a dry ascent with crampons and ice axes! The Runnel, Crotched, Red (notorious for loose rock in a thaw) & Goat Track Gullies were all climbed mainly on snow and ice while Spiral Gully featured plenty of steep grass.

Snow skills above the Twin Burns in Lochain

 Sunshine to the south of the Cairngorm plateau

Timothy wants to climb Everest!...for the 3rd time!!  Topping out on Central Gully