RIP Ang Pasang Sherpa

The ever smiling and hard working Pasang with us on Tent Peak last year

Photo Review of 2012

January - Winter climbing in Scotland. 

Best route of the season was Melting Pot (IV 6) under a blue sky. A very snowy start to the season followed by high pressure gave some good conditions for a few day. ran plenty of winter climbing and mountaineering courses in the Cairngorms and on the West Coast

February - Skiing off the summit of Blencathra in the Lake District. 

Good conditions in Scotland were replaced by an early thaw and challenging working conditions.

March - Fog bow on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis.  

Limited ice but stunning alpine conditions with plenty of cloud inversions. Winter was over by the middle of March (and summer by the end!)

 

April - Ski touring on the Vanoise Icecap. 

Despite varied weather we completed a full traverse of the Vanoise Icecap getting a couple of days in the powder as well.

May - Two Cuillin Ridge Traverses in a week. 

Perfect weather on Skye for some great scrambling and climbing. Selected for ITACE 2014, An expedition to cross Antartcica via Shackletons' proposed & uncompleted route. Started working with The North Face as a blogger and kit reviewer.

June - Filming with BBC Natural History in Greenland. 

Provided safety and rigging (plus some filming!) for a Barnacle Goose & Arctic Fox shoot on a loose basalt escarpment. Finished 10th in the Terrex Swift, a 48 hour Adventure Race.

July - Running the Tour du Mont Blanc,  

110 miles and 10,000m of ascent of some great trail running. Second attempt at the Lakeland 100 mile ultra. Retired after 75miles saving my legs for Greenland

August - Leading a Greenland expedition for Eton College.

A 3 week exploratory expedition in Liverpool land which succeeded on an unclimbed peak and the second highest summit in the range. Blogged live from the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc for the North Face following their athletes Jez Bragg & Lizzie Hawker

September - RIP Dawa Sherpa who was killed in the Manaslu avalanche, 

one of the strongest and friendliest Sherpas from our 2011 Everest expedition.

October - Leading an expedition to Island Peak, Nepal

Despite the coldest October in 20 years a very successful expedition putting 11 people on the summit

 November - a solo ascent of Ama Dablam, 

One of the world's most beautiful mountains. Open bivi at Camp 2 before a quick climb to the summit and back to Base Camp. Stayed on in Nepal to lead a successful Annapurna Sanctuary & Tent Peak expedition.

 December - Winter fell running & climbing in the Lake District

Great early season conditions coincided with a spell of high pressure.

The North Face Meru Kit Review

Self portrait on the summit of Ama Dablam

I've just returned from seven weeks in Nepal climbing and guiding. My personal highlight was a solo of the South West Ridge of Ama Dablam, summiting in seven hours after an open bivi at camp two. Either side of this I lead two very successful commercial trips to Island Peak in the Khumbu and Thapu Chuli or Tent Peak in the Annapurna Sanctuary. The North Face very kindly kitted me out with three items from their flagship Meru range - the Shaffle down jacket, the Meru mitts and the Gore Tex shell of the same name. I wrote a couple of initial reviews for the Shaffle & Meru jackets just before I departed but have now had a chance to put them through their paces in the environment they were designed for.

I opted to use a similar system to The North Face athlete Andy Houseman, as described to UKC, with a technical baselayer, synthetic insulated jacket, Meru Gore shell and the Shaffle as a belay jacket. The Khumbu was experiencing it's coldest October in twenty years with plenty of high winds so I spent a lot of time climbing in the full system. Summit temperatures on Island Peak were -26oC with strong winds.

 Summit of Island Peak at -26oC

MERU JACKET
My last few trips to the Himalaya I've gone for the soft shell option only taking a very lightweight waterproof for the walk in. However based on my experiences in the Lakes I decided to use the Meru jacket in my system. The Gore Active fabric proved to be incredibly breathable and I didn't suffer any condensation problems.

I usually take a size large but the medium gave me a good neat fit. I would have struggled to get any more insulation underneath but as part of an over layering system it worked very well. I really appreciated the slightly longer length which was a welcome boost to my comfort levels in the high winds. Combined with the longer length of the Shaffle jacket and boots with built in gaiters I was able to use a relatively lightweight soft shell trouser in all but the coldest conditions.

In my initial review of the jacket I was critical of the inclusion of mesh backed chest pockets. These were designed to increase ventilation in the same way as pit zips arguably do. I personally feel that your shell should be as simple and bombproof as possible. Using these pockets in poor conditions means your core will very quickly become wet and cold. Additionally you can only use this venting if you have nothing in the pockets. In practice I never used the pockets to cool down preferring to use them to store hat and gloves which I found far more effective at adjusting my temperature.

The hood is by far the best non wired design I've used being one of the few that is truly helmet compatible. it won't clinch down to a full tunnel but does provide plenty of protection from the side. It's major advantage is that it will stay in place over a helmet or hat and turns with the head with the volume reducer being a particularly efficient design. I'm not usually a huge fan of hoods finding them restrictive in all but the worst weather but in the windy conditions experienced this season I found myself tucked away under this hood for most of the time at altitude.

The jacket is made up of two different weights of fabric to help protect wear points and increase durability. It proved itself as a tough jacket standing up to almost everything I threw at it apart from minor damage to the front / chest pockets. This area is made of the lighter weight fabric with no reinforcing however I find that it is always prone to damage if you have anything in the pockets. Maybe it's my graceful climbing style or just the fact that I store a lot of equipment in the pockets but it does always seem very vulnerable and my last four waterproof jackets have all suffered from this.

The rubberised dots around the shoulders and waist seemed to work. I wasn't carrying a huge rack but I didn't notice my harness slipping and I certainly didn't have to re-tighten it at any point during the day. A number of other manufacturers have tried similar ideas but have had real problems with durability but I'm happy to report that all dots are still in place! The velcro cuffs were a fairly universal design but with a better than average contact area. I've had real problems with small velcro tabs becoming choked in heavy snow conditions meaning it's impossible to seal the cuff. All jackets suffer from this to some extent but I anticipate this not being a huge problem with the Meru.

The best compliment that I can pay this jacket is that I didn't notice it in action. It provided a simple windproof, waterproof and breathable shell in which I could climb and trek. The features all worked and there was minimal faff. Some reinforcing on the front of the jacket and waterproof pockets and this jacket would nearly be perfect.    

Cold start on Island Peak

SHAFFLE DOWN JACKET
This jacket proved to be incredibly lightweight, useful and a great colour!. It uses 200grams of top quality down in a jacket that weights just 808grams. With no velcro on the cuffs it was very easy to whip on and off and I found myself using it for even short breaks or even in anticipation of windy conditions on the col above.

Like the Meru Gore jacket I wore a medium rather than my normal large which comfortably fitted over my three under layers. The very lightweight face fabric has proved surprisingly tough and there's no visible damage. Overall it's a very simple design with no drawcords, velcro, excess pockets etc, yet it maximises it's insulation while keeping the weight right down.

Sat around in the mess tent at base camp I had to use a couple of other layers plus this jacket to be comfortable. My older and far heavier expedition weight jacket is usually fine just over a thermal but now feels like overkill for anything under 7000m. It certainly takes up a lot more space in my bag. I didn't notice any difference in insulation with the body mapping, which places more down in certain areas, but then again I didn't suffer any cold spots in what is essential a very lightweight jacket. The theory behind mapping makes sense and allows The North Face to make the jacket lighter while offering the same level of overall warmth.

The cuffs of this jacket feature a recessed seam which produces a very warm collar of down around the wrist. In practice I couldn't decide if I liked this feature or not. It was certainly very warm giving a real boost to this vulnerable area, (warm wrists mean warm hands) but I found that it kept getting in the way and got very dirty especially when trying to eat dehydrated rations.

The hood worked great fitting over all my other layers and a helmet. It offers limited protection to the face but even without a volume reducer or drawcords it doesn't get in the way even when worn on its own.

The Shaffle is a very striking looking jacket and there were plenty of questions about it. Warmth for weight it's arguably one of the best pieces on the market. The North Face have done a great job at keeping it simple offering maximum warmth with minimal faff.

Looking down the summit ridge from Island Peak

MERU MITTS
The Meru Mitts proved to be a very adaptable design being less bulky than traditional high altitude mitts. The combination of pile and Primaloft meant that they were plenty warm enough and were less prone to compression when trying to do anything with them on, a problem with down mitts. With wristovers and thermal gloves I'd be very happy to use these above 8000m with a pair of down mitts in my bag as backup.

I would suggest that the majority of climbs over 6000m these days are made on fixed lines requiring wearers to spend long periods maneuvering a handled Jumar. None of the popular models of ascendor will accept a full down mitt into the handle but the tapered shape of these mitts meant that they worked reasonably well with a Petzl handled version. However the little finger was then vunerable to the cold where it presses against the angle. The Meru mitt has what feels like a stitched through seam in the insulation along it's lower edge which gave a noticeable cold spot in use. I would imagine technical climbing with modern tools would have the same problem. Moving the seam would immediately resolve this problem or a more radical approach would be to fit a foam insert to protect and support this vulnerable spot for the many hours spent hanging from a jumar or ice tool.  

The information that came with the mitts described a removable liner. My version didn't have this feature and was the poorer for it. Being able to remove the insulation to aid drying the glove is critical for multi day trips.

The gauntlet style offered plenty of protection without being too bulky over the Shaffle down jacket. There is reduced insulation in the extended cuff to help with this. However the supplied wrist loops are attached to the end of this gauntlet sitting half way up the forearm and proved very fiddly to use restricting removal of the mitt. Despite insisting all my clients used idiot loops on their gloves I was eventually forced to remove mine.

The leather palm has proved very durable and doesn't show any sign of the many meters of fixed line I slid down with an arm wrap - unlike one of my jackets!

I found the fit to be pretty good. I usually take a large glove to get the volume right but this usually leaves my stubby little fingers with rather too much deadspace. In mitts this can be worse but the pre-curved shape and the X-Trafit insert technology seemed to do a very good job of putting my hand in the right position with no excess fabric or insulation getting in the way of the job in hand. Surprisingly for a mitt i was able to operate my ascender and various karabiners while wearing them. The one minor gripe is the fit of the thumb which I found short and snug especially when wearing a pair of thermal gloves.

Overall the fit and technology behind this mitt are very good. A removable inner would transform it into a very practical option for all but the worst conditions. 

Relaxing at the top of the crux Yellow Tower having just free climbed it

Settling in for an open bivi at the exposed Camp 2

Summit of Ama Dablam with Everest in the background

  

The iconic Ama Dablam

A great wee film from Andy Houseman in his The North Face Meru kit climbing the Slovak direct on Denali

Images from Tent Peak

 Tent Peak from the North Col

 One of the locals from the walk in!

 Surrounded by mountains in the Annapurna Sanctuary

 Sunrise on the South Face of the 8000m Annapurna 1

 

Crossing the glacier to Base Camp

 Climbing up towards Tent Peak ABC

 First views of an insignificant looking Tent Peak

 Crossing the glacier on summit day

 The exposed and dramatic summit ridge from the North Col

 Steep climbing on fixed lines

 Tent Peak summit

 Tired legs on the descent

 

Plenty of stunning sunrises on this trip

Pokhara tomorrow...

Zac texted to say the team are now back down into the jungle at Ghandruk (1940m). The groups final days walk back to Pokhara will be tomorrow where they are all looking forawrd to showers and a few cheeky lemonades.

Back to the jungle...

Zac called from Chomrung. Everyone is well and glad they summited when they did as the weather has closed in and it is snowing higher up. Back in Pokhara Monday afternoon - looking forward to 'civilisation'.

Tent Peak summit

A great and quick update from Zac who has just called from Base Camp. Everyone reached their summit early this morning. Lots of snow and very cold but all of the team were successful. All back down again to Base Camp again and happy but very tired.

Up to ABC...

Zac called in today to say the team have now reached advanced base camp at a height of 5045m. Caroline has decided not to continue any further but is happy having reached ABC and will wait for the rest of the team there while they make their summit bid tomorrow. Dorjee & Pasang have gone ahead to fixe the lines ready for the summit push in the morning. The team plan to leave ABC at 4am with aim of reaching the summit around 10am - 11am tomorrow morning Nepali time.

Tent Peak Base Camp

We had a short day today just 2 hours across the glacier to Tent Peak base camp at a height of 4200m it is a very dramatic setting below the gigantic South face of Annapurna. It's blue skies as far as the eye can see and the forecast is for it to stay the same for the rest fo the week. The team are feeling good and we plan to make our summit bid the day after tomorrow.

Annapurna Sanctuary

We are now within the stunning Annapurna Sanctuary at Machhapuchhare Base Camp, (3720m.) We are surrounded by dramatic peaks such as Hiunchulie, Gangapurna, Annapurna South, Annapurna I and Annapurna III, and of course Macchapuchhare herself at 6997m.
The weather has been good with blue skies and everyone is in good spirits. The next stage of the journey will be to trek to Annapurna Base camp at 4095m, before heading towards Tent Peak ready for our summit attempt.

Off to Tent Peak

The team have all arrived safe and well at Pokhara airport. Day 1 was mild weather with brief rain showers. We had a bus ride to Naya Pul then enjoyed a short trek to Tikhedunga. The trek was around 1.5 hours to an altitude of 1577m with the harvest in full swing and many hay bails being made. Everyone is happy and enjoying themselves and going well

Tent Peak

Thapu Chuli or Tent Peak

Just as my time in Nepal was coming to an end I've picked up another trip. An Adventure Peaks group for a trek in to the Annapurna Sanctuary and an ascent of Thapu Chuli or Tent Peak (5700m)