Breaking Davina!!

Today the Comic Relief Challenge for 2014 rolled in to the Lake District. We were running mountain safety for Davina McCall and a BBC film crew on her Beyond Breaking Point challenge with a planned mountain walk from Seathwaite to Langdale via the summit of Scafell Pike. Fresh from a 130 mile cycle from Edinburgh, which had taken her 15 plus hours in horrendous conditions, Davina cycled into Seathwaite Farm and the delights of the camping barn in which to prepare for the hill. We'd made the decision to shorten the route due to full winter conditions on the hill. Seven hours later we arrived in Langdale with a very bedraggled looking film crew but Davina was in a far better state than when we first met her!

Recceing camera positions...

Soft wet snow by Sprinkling Tarn

Today I've been out above the snow line in the Lake District recceing camera positions for a forthcoming BBC spectacular. Watch this space....
There's plenty of soft snow on the tops with knee deep drifts above 550m however we didn't need ice axes or crampons. Underneath the turf isn't frozen so suspect there's no winter climbing to be had at present. Great End was well covered and a good freeze will produce some great conditions in the gullys

 

Great End with a good covering of soft snow

Antarctic training...

  Jo & Stew working hard on the first climb

The ITACE 2014 team have just spent a week in the Lake District training, planning and developing their systems and skills. With less than a year to go until we depart for Antarctica physical training is becoming critical and we kicked off the week with a 19.5 hour hill walk. Our 42km route was loosely based on the start of the Bob Graham and led from Keswick up over Robinson, Hindscarth, Dale Head, Grey Knotts, Brandreth, Green Gable and Great Gable. From here we diverted to the Central Fells climbing Lingmell and Scafell pike via Corridor Route and a long descent in the snow via Esk Hause and Langstrath finishing at daybreak in Grange.
After a few hours sleep it was back to work finalising our plans, kit lists, food lists, partnership agreements and the hundred and one things that make up an expedition of this magnitude. Our ropework will be critical for a safe descent of the Beardmore Glacier and crevasse rescue was practiced from the top of Shepherds Crag making it feel very real.
Note: All the photos are screen grabs from video

 Stew staying focused for a long night in the hills

 Snow showers building as we depart the summit of Robinson

 Snow on the Central Fells

 Crevasse rescue on Shepherds Crag

 Jo pulling hard to rescue Stew from a particularly nasty looking hole!

 Being rescued using an assisted hoist

St Bees bouldering

 

On Slanty (V3)...

Photographer John Pickles and myself have spent the last few days following the conditions and bouldering across the country from one coast to the other. Today with very little fingertip skin left after a couple of days in Northumberland we headed for the west coast and St Bees. The cliff sheltered us form the cold northerly and conditions were perfect in the sunshine. Highlight for me was the awkward Whiteface Left V3 which only succumbed after repeated efforts and a change of rock boots. More of Johns work can be seen at his website John Pickles Photography

.....and off!

 John making it look easy on Slanty (V3)

Pulling hard on the balancy Whiteface Right (V1)

 The frustrating Whiteface Left (V3)

Going for the top on Whiteface Left V3

 

The striking arete of Problem 13 (V0+)

Kendal Mountain Film Festival 2013

Open Adventure C2C Race Film

Additional GoPro filming by yours truly!

Scottish Winter Mountaineering & Climbing courses

Learning to lead on Golden Oldie (II) on the West Face of Aonach Mor

A few photos to whet the appetite for the forthcoming Scottish winter season. I'll be working my 9th season running winter mountaineering and climbing courses from Fort William and Aviemore. Please get in touch if you fancy a wee adventure...

Enjoying the delights of a bucket seat belay!

Bad weather arriving on the Cairngorm plateau

The 4 star Curved Ridge (II) in Glencoe

Digging snow holes on a character building day!

Steep mixed climbing on Fingers Ridge (IV 4) in Coire an t-Sneachda

Ski mountaineering on Ben Nevis prior to a 1300m descent

 Topping out on Green Gable in the Lake District

Enjoying the sunshine on a classic mountaineering day

Curved Ridge (II) under heavy snow conditions and a blue sky

The stunning Smith's Route (V 5) on Ben Nevis

Descending to Fort William after a big day on the Ben

Open Adventure Coast to Coast Adventure Race

 The initial sea kayak stage from Whitehaven

In an unusually sensible decision for me I decided not to race the Open Adventure Coast to Coast race a few days before the CCC. I completed this four day adventure race in 2011 and was keen to compete again but thought I'd save the legs for the main event. However it did mean I was able to enjoy the atmosphere and buzz of the race as a supporter shuttling equipment, feeding my competitor, filming and generally drinking coffee in the sun.

The race began in a millpond like Whitehaven harbour with a sea kayak stage around to St Bees. As the flotilla swept around the headland they were met by choppy seas and things became a bit more exciting. A couple of competitors had to be rescued and ferried to the beach while the leading team capsized within sight of the finish and had an eventful swim and clamber through the rocks with their kayak to reach transition.

Day one is the most demanding for competitors and support crews alike. As the racers headed off on their bikes the boats were transported to Crummock Water. The next stage was a paddle in to a headwind along the length of the lake, an interesting and energy sapping unsupported portage and back into the boats to paddle to the far end of Buttermere. Finally the race took to the hills for a run over Robinson, Maiden Moor and Catbells. With the finish in Keswick in sight there's a final sting in the tail with a 600m swim across Derwent Water. After the days efforts the cold water triggered leg cramps in even the hardiest of competitors and the rescue kayaks were kept busy providing a floating stretching service. As the racers hobbled from the water they faced a short run in to the centre of Keswick and the finish outside the iconic Moot Hall.

Day 2 began in the half light of a misty morning with a short but sharp climb on the bikes up out of Keswick to Thirlmere Dam. The midges were out and hastened competitors through transition and into their kayaks for the paddle up Thirlmere. A muddy portage, change the shoes and away up the side of Helvellyn heading for the summit in the cloud. Navigation was certainly an issue for some of the competitors this year and there were a few variations on the normal descent via Swirral Edge and Hole in the Wall. The final paddling stage was from Patterdale to Pooley Bridge along the length of Ullswater.Conditions were improving fast but all the racers made it safely past the ice creams and on to the bikes for a mainly on road blast to Kirkby Stephen. Within a few miles of the finish an unsecured map restricted a competitors view at high speed and she found herself sliding along the road minus her bike. Missing several layers of skin but made of tough stuff she was able to finish the day and with a bit of good work by the medical team was able to complete the four days.
Low cloud gave a challenging start to day 3 with a boggy run over Nine Standards with even some of the most experienced competitors struggling with the navigation. Meanwhile the local farmer was doing a roaring trade in teas and coffees at transition as the support crews relaxed after an early start! The rest of the day would be spent on the bikes initially offroad on some great mountain biking over the moors to Castle Bolton and then following minor roads to Northallerton. Unfortunately another highspeed bike crash caused one of the leading teams to retire from the competition although the two remaining members did complete the course - in a particularly fast time.
The final day was spectacular as the early morning cloud inversion burned off to give a hot and dry day. The first racers were on their way at 4.30am making their way through the gloom on a short road bike to Swainton. The early start was worth it though as they climbed out of the cloud for a stunning sunrise as they ran over Carlton Bank on the Cleveland Way. A long biking stage then followed. Less technical than yesterday but mainly off road as far as Gainsley and then back on to the minor roads as far as Whitby. In a major route change from 2011 the final leg to the finish at Robin Hoods Bay was a run along the cliff top path dodging the bank holiday tourists. The staggered start times meant that the majority of the competitors finished within a short space of time of each other and there was a real party atmosphere on the terrace above the sea where the finish gantry was located. A top event with some very close racing. There were clear winners in each category but further down the field sometimes only seconds separated the racers after four days of racing. Race reports can be found at here and results here.

The field heads for St Bees and some rough conditions!

 Stunning early morning on the Cleveland Way

Fast mountain biking on the fourth and final day of racing

Lakeland 100 - A race of two halves

The finish! :)

38 hours and 8 minutes! At the third time of asking I've managed to get round the 105 miles of the Lakeland 100. It wasn't pretty and very slow but it was all about finishing. Very hot and humid conditions gave way to torrential rain and thunderstorms on Saturday evening neither of which were condusive to moving fast in the hills so I'm very happy to have made the finish with a couple of hours to spare. The stats tell a tell with 124 finishers from 274 starters. The full results can be found here.

I started slowly in the heat anticipating I could pick up some time in the cool of the nightime. The usual stomach problems slowed my pace from Black Sail onwards but I was picking up places on the climbs and descents and holding my own on the flat. I arrived at Dockwray, my 2011 end point, feeling stronger than I'd ever felt at this stage of the race but the wheels did  come off slightly on the long leg to Dalemain after i miscalculated on the water and ran out. My aim had always been to arrive at Dalemain before the Lakeland 50 race started which I managed with a couple of minutes to spare arriving at 59 miles in 17:28. It also meant the magical experience of being clapped into the checkpoint by 750 runners!

The lowest point of my race came around the 65 mile mark. Despite stuffing my face at Dalemain I hit the wall again and ran out of water dropping into Howtown. I took 20 minutes to sort myself out but was still moving slowly on the leg over to Mardale losing 50 minutes on my 35 hour schedule. Apologies to the Howtown check point volunteer who walked in as I was fixing some chafeage issues!

Crouched in a clump of bracken off the trail for a quick break I heard a 50 mile competitor quip "Look - he's evaporated" on spying my bag dumped by the side of the path. I wasn't far off in the heat of the day and was looking forward to the rain promised by the black clouds which were ominously building. The first crash of thunder and driving rain came 30 seconds before the Mardale checkpoint at just over 24 hours gone. From here it was head down in full waterproofs and keep moving. the checkpoint was incredibly busy with everyone trying to get under cover so I grabbed a couple of sandwiches and set off quickly feeling strong in the cooler condition.

My stomach problems had now resolved themselves and I set a comfortable pace through the darkness. The rain was bouncing knee high and there was a river coming down Garburn Pass. Ambleside was a welcome sight although the crowds from earlier in the day had headed home. Accepting that my target of 35 hours had slipped away in the conditions I opted to spend a bit longer in the checkpoint to ensure I was in good shape to get to the end. However on the climb out of Ambleside the sleepmonsters arrived for the first time. There had been plnety of frogs and toads on the path enjoying the rain but now they were everywhere and all different sizes!

The Langdale checkpoint loomed out of the rain like a mirage. Sofas, open fires and a pounding soundtrack.
The marshalls were all only wearing shorts and t-shirts so it must still have been pretty warm but there were a lot of cold competitors huddled under space blankets. I started to get cold quickly so opted to head back out in to the weather wearing everything I had. A calculated risk as I didn't think I had much in reserve to deal with any problems but the fear of an embarrisng rescue by my old Mountain rescue team should push me that little bit further or at least out of the valley!

Dawn arrived suddenly at Blea Tarn but the rain didn't let up and many of the trails were still ankle deep in flowing water. Foolishly I'd never recceed the final leg from Tilberthwaite to Coniston despite hearing plenty of horror stories about the nav and the stone staircase. I drank my thirteenth and final cup of coffee and quickly set off. My constant companians from Ambleside were a team of young ladies running the fifty as a team of three. I'm afraid I wasn't very sociable by this stage but I'm sure I gave them something to laugh about as I fell asleep on my feet with my head resting on my cheat sticks. Helena had stopped to deal with an unconcious competitor with a head injury just before Mardale but had caught up with her team mates Ann and Judith and was marshalling them (and me) towards the finish.

The final descent was long and painful as my body suddenly tightend up and seemed very fragile. I lost one place just before the end, beaten in a 'sprint' finish after 104 miles! Good effort Gary.

I managed a trot to the line where a few brave souls waited in the rain. However the reception on entering the John Ruskin School was pretty amazing with a couple of hundred folk cheering people home. I was cut free from my shackle (Sportident band) and received my medal and t-shirt. I lasted about 40 minutes before I fell asleep in my chair but enough time for a very welcome bacon sarnie! A couple of hours sleep in the van and back up for the final presentation and story telling which marked the culmination of a great event.

Perfect conditions on Dow Crag

 Enjoying warm dry rock!

Today I was out on a sunny Dow Crag helping Stuart prepare for a forthcoming trip to Ama Dablam with Adventure Peaks. The brief for today was a bit of everything - scrambling, hard climbing, exposure, abseiling & fixed line practice. We began with a quick ascent of C Ordinary Route (D) looking at efficient movement skills and trust in the climbing system. A comfortable solo down Easy Terrace and we geared up at the foot of the classic Eliminate A (VS 4c). This was two grades harder than Stuart had ever attempted before but similar in standard to the crux Yellow Tower on Ama although you do get the assistance of a well anchored fixed line to haul on as well!. I strung the first two pitches together to give a sustained 35m pitch of 4b climbing which provided a good challenge for Stuart. From the belay we then escaped back to our bags with a multi pitch abseil. The final hour of the day was spent looking at fixed line systems in the broken ground at the base of the crag before a pleasant walk out in the evening sunshine. Next stop Nepal!

An exposed stance on C Ordinary Route

Wainwright Memorial Challenge

 Jon & support runner Oli at the Ambleside start (photo. Ceris Owen)

There is a real buzz around ultra running in the UK at the moment and nowhere more so than in the Lake District. New challenges are continually being developed and people are pushing beyond their own perceived limits.....

Midsummer's weekend in the Lakes, plenty of miles in training, an awesome support crew and a very worthy cause. Jon Tomb's plans had all come together for an epic undertaking - The Wainwright Memorial Challenge, a 107 mile route covering 57 summits with 36,000' of ascent.  Alfred Wainwright devised and walked this route in six days with three friends over the Whitsuntide holiday in 1931. Following his death his unpublished notes of this walk were turned into eleven more 'manageable' days and published as "The Wainwright Memorial Walk" 

 A short road section in Borrowdale (photo. Sarah Smith)

Jon walked the route soon after it was published spending those eleven days exploring a new landscape in the rain. It obviously left a huge impression on him because fifteen years later he now works and plays in those very hills. A member of Eden Runners he joined the ranks of the Bob Graham Club last year and completed his fourteenth consecutive London Marathon. Many of his challenges have given him the opportunity to raise money for MacMillan Cancer Support, a charity very close to his heart. A staunch supporter this challenge would see Jon go past the £40,000 mark in fifteen years of fundrasining. You can still donate at his Just Giving page...

www.justgiving.com/Jonathan-Tombs/

And so to the route itself. Jon hasn't been able to find any record of anyone completing a continuous round. Even Wainwright on his successful six day round was forced to miss out Blencathra and Grasmoor due to time constraints. The 'official' written version includes 54 Wainwrights plus Helvellyn Lower Man. Jon added the obvious summits of Thunacar Knott and Loughrigg to give 57 tops. Over the last few months he's put the leg work in and recceed the whole route and on the whole it paid off. In typical Lakeland summer weather he had to contend with driving rain and high winds for much of the circuit but didn't need to use a map for the first 18 hours. Terrible conditions on the leg from Buttermere to Wasdale on Saturday night meant that it took 12 hours for his support crew to navigate him safely over Red Pike to Great Gable and on to Red Pike number two. In contrast a steady recce of this route had taken just over six hours! Many of Jon's supporters had sponsored individual peaks. Looking for an excuse to end the torment coming off Great Gable he suddenly realised that one of his pacers had offered £115 for Kirkfell, the next summit! This extra pressure kept his focus and it became a mind game ticking off peak by peak. After 45 hours and 18 minutes and at 1:18 on a cold wet morning a small band of supporters cheered Jon home after an incredible effort.

Starting the steep climb up onto Catbells (photo. Sarah Smith)

A couple of moments stood out for Jon. Topping out on Scafell Pike in 1:54 from Wasdale, 6 minutes up on schedule. After a disheartening night it was just the confidence boost he needed to keep his head down and keep plugging away. A few long hours later he was dropping down off his final summit, Loughrigg, when the lights of Ambleside appeared. Not just the end of the challenge but also the first view in a very long time. However in common with many folk who have experienced long days out on the hills supported by their friends it is this friendship that sticks in Jon's mind. Only three of his Bob Graham team had been able to turn out so their was a whole new vibe and plenty of enthusiasm to feed off.

It's always interesting to compare very special experiences. For Jon the Bob Graham Round will always have a bit of magic but this challenge plumbed him to far greater depths than last years efforts. Not having a schedule meant that his mental approach had to be very different. He was able to take longer breaks at the eight road crossings to feed himself and put on dry kit but there was never any excuse for dropping out due to time constraints and he just had to keep going. Sunrise at Black Sail on Sunday morning brought more rain and terrible visibility and it was at this point Jon seriously considered stopping. Fortunately his two support runners were having none of it and didn't give him the option!

The end in sight... Grasmere after 44 hours (photo. Oli Blomfield)

A gourmet feast of Muller rice, Fridj mikshakes, quiche, cocktail sausages, homemade flapjack, pizza, shot blocks, jelly babies, hobnob bars, cereal bars, snickers, cheese slice, pepperami, and jelly beans kept Jon on the move through nearly 46 hours of effort. Almost every ultra runner will tell you they get cravings for real food and he only managed to force down two gels throughout the whole epic. A fundamental point in Jon's planning had been fish and chips in Ambleside at the end of his round. However the poor weather and conditions underfoot slowed him considerably and the chippy was most definitely shut at 1.18am!

Surprisingly his legs are far less tight or fatigued than after this years London Marathon! A swollen right ankle from an argument with a rock and tender right knee seem a small price to pay for an experience like this. He'll be back on the hills this week introducing an Outward Bound group to the delights of camping in the Lake District. Apart from that a few easy runs and short fell races to will give him the opportunity to relive an amazing adventure with an enormous sense of pride.

An Ambleside gutter & a shut chippy after 45 hours 18 minutes. Job well done!

Jon carried a tracker courtesy of James Thurlow at Open Adventure and his trace can be seen at the two links below;

http://maps.opentracking.co.uk/tombs13.cfm?n=1  

http://maps.opentracking.co.uk/tombs13.cfm?n=2

The total raised for Macmillan Cancer Support now stands at £3300 in 2013 and an amazing £42,400 in the last 15 years!

Jon's full route and timings are detailed below starting in Windermere and finishing in Ambleside. 

Windermere depart                         04.01

1. Yoke                                    05.28
2. Ill Bell                                   05.40
3. Froswick                              05.50
4. Thornthwaite Crag                06.06
5. High Street                           06.20
6. The Knott                             06.36
7. Angletarn Pikes                     07.10

Patterdale Arrive                             07.36
Patterdale Depart                            07.53

1. Helvellyn                                09.23     
2. Helvellyn Lower Man             09.31
3. Whiteside                               09.43
4. Raise                                      09.53
5. Stybarrow Dodd                    10.10
6. Watson's Dodd                      10.17
7. Great Dodd                            10.35
8. Clough Head                          11.01

Threlkeld Arrive                                11.37
Threlkeld Depart                               11.54 

1. Blencathra                               12.58

Keswick Arrive                                 14.25
Keswick Depart                                14.50 

1. Catbells                                   15.53
2. Maiden Moor                          16.23
3. High Spy                                  16.47
4. Dale Head                               17.32
5. Hindscarth                               17.51
6. Robinson                                 18.19

Newlands Arrive                                18.48
Newlands Depart                               18.53 

1. Knott Rigg                                19.16
2. Ard Crags                                 19.32
3. Sail                                            20.10
4. Eel Crag                                    20.22
5. Grasmoor                                  20.46
6. Wandope                                  21.03
7. Whiteless Pike                           21.16

Buttermere Arrive                                21.44
Buttermere Depart                               22.31 

1. Red Pike (Buttermere)               00.05
2. High Stile                                   00.35
3. High Crag                                  01.30
4. Haystacks                                  02.51
5. Brandreth                                   04.20
6. Green Gable                               04.59
7. Great Gable                                05.25
8. Kirk Fell                                     06.30
9. Pillar                                           07.52
10. Scoat Fell                                   08.48
11. Red Pike (Wasdale)                   09.18

Wasdale Arrive                                    10.21
Wasdale Depart                                   10.53

1. Scafell Pike                                 12.50
2. Great End                                   13.34
3. Esk Pike                                     14.17
4. Bowfell                                       14.49
5. Crinkle Crags                              15.52
6. Cold Pike                                    16.36
7. Pike O'Blisco                              17.14

Langdale Arrive                                     18.03
Langdale Depart                                    18.37 

1. Pike O' Stickle                             20.04
2. Harrison Stickle                            20.24
3. Pavey Ark                                    20.37
4. Thunacar Knott                            20.46
5. High Raise                                    21.06
6. Sergeant Man                               21.20
7. Calf Crag                                     22.02
8. Gibson Knott                               22.45
9. Helm Crag                                   23.03

Grasmere Arrive                                    23.49
Grasmere Depart                                   23.59 

1. Loughrigg                                     00.43

Ambleside Arrive                                   01.18

Hadrians Wall C2C Challenge

 Following the line of Hadrian's Wall

I've just returned from guiding a Hadrian's Wall Challenge for Activius. 24 hours to get 100 miles from Bowness on Solway to Tynemouth by trail  and mountain bike. A surreal start to the day in Keswick saw us holding up Jeremy Clarkson as we backed a minibus with 18 bikes on a trailer onto the main road! Wonder if we'll feature in one of his rants?

The event itself provided great triathlon 'brick' training with 15 miles on foot immediately after a 45 mile bike ride. A couple of soggy hours kip in a field and we were on our way again at first light for the final 40 mile cycle ride through Newcastle and out to the coast at Tynemouth. To quote the late Brian Hanrahan - "I counted them all out and I counted them all back". A very successful event with all 16 participants completing the course in 22:30 for a barbeque on the east coast. The team from Legal & General raised nearly £20,000 in the process.

The majority of the route was on good cycle paths

Great dry conditions for the whole time we were on the move

 Just over half way on the classic central section of Hadrians Wall

 Rest break leaning against the wall!

 Stunning early morning light

Crossing the Tyne on the approach to Newcastle

Lake District 24 Peaks Challenge

 

 Descending from High Crag early on day 1

Following on from last weeks 3 Peaks work I've been back out with another group raising money for charity but this weekend it's been on the far more interesting Activius 24 Peaks Challenge in the sunny Lake District. This two day 31 mile route has the added advantage of minimal driving and comfortable B&B accommodation each night.

Day 1 saw an early start from Buttermere for the stomp up Red Pike. The weather was stunning as we maintained a good pace along the High Stile Ridge as far as Haystacks and on to Moses trod for the traverse around to windy gap and up to Great Gable. The classic Ennerdale fell race was also being run today and we used several of the sneaky runners trods but we were off the route heading for Scafell before the leading competitors came through. The descent off Gable is always tough on the legs and heat was starting to get to some folk so it was a great relief to spend a few minutes at the spring just above Styhead Tarn. Our pace began to slow on the long climb up Corridor route but there was no rest to be had on the summit. The hundreds of other walkers and '3 Peakers' were easily out  numbered by the millions of flying insects enjoying the windless conditions. Our route now led along the ridge over Great End and Esk Pike as far as Bowfell before the long and unrelenting descent to Langdale down The Band. 13:40 after starting the whole of our team were safely down nursing a healthy glow and pouring fluid down their necks in preperation for tomorrow.

Sunday involves climbing 4 more peaks than day 1 but there is less distance, ascent and the terrain is far easier underfoot. We had to complete the route to High Row, Dockray in 10:20 to get under the 24 hours. the first brutal climb up Red Screes from Kirkstone Pass had the groups tired legs screaming in protest but they persevered and things looked a whole lot better from the top with our route stretched out in front of us. Cooler temperatures made keeping our momentum up a lot easier and we were soon on top of Fairfield mentally preparing for the tough middle section of the route. The scree descent to Grisedale Tarn is never pleasant but the National Trust have just started to build a proper pitched path at the bottom. A quick blast up and down the steep Seat Sandle and the team put their heads down for the direct climb of Dollywaggon Pike. I nipped off route to replenish a few waterbottles but had to work hard to catch a motivated group who had the end in sight. The final few miles of this challenge are a real pleasure following the undulating ridge over Helvellyn, Raise and the Dodds. The flying insects were back with a vengeance which also helped to keep the pace high and a very happy group reached the van and a waiting bottle of champagne and a few chilled beers in a great total time of 22:58.

 On top of peak no 4 - Haystacks

 Ennerdale & Buttermere

 

The scree descent off peak 14 - Fairfield